Croagh Patrick: A Winter Hike and A Great Bit Of Path Engineering 🥶🏔️
The traditional route up and down from the Murrisk side.
The statue of our patron saint, St. Patrick, serves as both the starting point and the obligatory photo shoot!
On St Stephen's Day, Timmy and I decided to tackle one of Ireland's most iconic peaks—Croagh Patrick, affectionately known as “the reek”. It had been a while since my last ascent, and I was eager to see the impressive work that had been carried out recently to create a safer path for the thousands of climbers who flock to the summit each year.The weather forecast was perfect for hiking: crisp and clear. We set off early, keen to make the most of the day but as we arrived at the car park, however, it became clear we weren’t the only ones with this plan; the park was brimming with cars. Stepping out into the brisk December air, we wrapped ourselves in layers, well aware that it would feel even colder at the top. The temperature hovered around 2 or 3 degrees, but with the wind chill factor at the peak projected to drop to a frosty -4, we knew we wouldn't linger too long at the summit.
Climbers can be seen walking slowly to the summit in this photo, which was taken close to the starting point.
Basically the trek can be divided into three distinct sections. The first leg takes you from the imposing statue of St Patrick to a saddle at about 500 metres, where we will turn right, continuing our ascent. The second section provides a brief respite, a short level stretch sheltered from the biting winds—a perfect spot for a quick break. Finally, there’s the steep climb to the summit rising to 764 metres, where the real challenge awaits especially today as there is ice on the summit.
We are not long into the climb before we see the new steps and they are already proving an added benefit to climbing the old trail.
As we embarked on the first section, early signs of the dedicated volunteer efforts to improve the trail were immediately apparent. Small steps now lined the path, with loose scree cleared and drainage gullies thoughtfully engineered to combat soil erosion. Peering up towards the mountain top, clouds would drift in now and then, momentarily blocking our view of the summit; yet, it was a great sight to see fellow climbers darkly silhouetted against the stark contrast of the icy rocks and white cloud as they made their way slowly up to the top.
Reaching the middle section, we take the opportunity to take a breather and enjoy the view.
Looking out towards Clew Bay and the stunning vistas of Croaghaun mountains in Achill and the Nephin Beg range made it hard to focus on anything else. With each elevation, the panorama expanded—The Corrannabinnias, Birreencorragh and the great Nephin Mór to our right were breathtaking reminders of the remote wild beauty that surrounded us here in County Mayo. Upon reaching the saddle, we took a moment to catch our breath and assess our next steps. The temperature had dropped noticeably, and the icy northerly wind that had graced us on the way up now seemed to have subsided. Engaging in conversation with fellow hikers heading down, we learnt that conditions atop Croagh Patrick were quite chilly, with the final 100 metres particularly treacherous due to ice.
The magnificent hills of the Nephin Begs are clearly visible when looking out over Clew Bay.
The final steep ascent revealed the full extent of the step-building project carried out over the recent period of time of about 3 to 4 years—a labour of love by some truly dedicated souls. Reflecting on my previous day and night challenges in this section, where loose stone made every step a gamble, it was remarkable to feel the difference this new path created. The trek was far more manageable now, yet it retained its steep nature, demanding careful footing as we approached our goal. As we neared the top, and with each step I took, I found myself glancing upward, pondering just how much longer the climb would last.
As can be seen on both sides of the new pathway, the loose scree trail has been replaced by a stepped path that winds up the mountain, making it simpler for many hikers to traverse the terrain. Here, they are getting closer to the top.
But as if by magic, the outline of the chapel appeared, triumphantly marking our arrival at the summit. The sudden sight of it never fails to evoke a sense of achievement and accomplishment, no matter how many times I climb this holy mountain.
Despite being subjected to all kinds of weather, the historic chapel at the summit is still standing tall and doing very well.
Made it: On the top!
The winter chill nipped at our skin, and the biting wind turned the experience into a thrilling challenge. It was the kind of cold you feel deep in your bones, yet it only heightened our spirits as we paused to take in the views. Attempting to capture the beauty surrounding us through my lens was an exercise in futility at times. I couldn't help but think of those stunning drone shots found online that elegantly showcase the majesty of this ancient mountain.
In order to protect themselves from the strong wind, people gather near the back of the church.
The plaque reminds us that Croagh Patrick is important as Ireland’s holiest mountain, a major pilgrimage site where St Patrick fasted for 40 days in 441 AD, banishing snakes from Ireland; it was also a sacred pagan site for millennia before Christianity, linked to harvest rituals and astronomy, and now draws thousands annually for Reek Sunday, (last Sunday of July) for penance, worship at the summit chapel, and stunning views of Clew Bay.
The icy wind makes strange patterns on the ice that seem to look like feathers! Here, the ice has become imbedded in the church's walls.
Wanting to stay a bit longer, the relentless cold wind soon urged us to begin our descent. Again we had to be careful to avoid any precarious slips on the icy pathway. However, as we crossed below the ice line, the atmosphere shifted dramatically.
As we descended, we looked east and no matter where you look, the vista is amazing.
The frigid air melted away, replaced with an increase in temperature that made the trek down feel far more enjoyable. It was incredible how a change in elevation could shift the entire experience!
The ice on the ground also has strange forms in it.
Hundreds of pilgrims gather on the summit every year on "Reek Sunday" in July to attend holy masses held in front of the chapel.
Once we left the steep section behind, the hike back down to the carpark turned out to be fairly brisk, and before we knew it, we were headed home and chatting about how much we enjoyed this one. Reflecting on this winter hike, I realised that of all the day and night climbs I’ve tackled on Croagh Patrick, today was the first I’d experienced in winter. The encounter with the icy conditions only amplified the excitement and thrill that this climb provided, perfectly accentuating the beauty of the season.
Since there is nothing to cling on to for balance and it is easy to slip on the ice, we must proceed cautiously on the descent today.
Croagh Patrick in winter is not just a hike; it's a challenging experience, especially in the icy conditions like we encountered today. It invited us to revel in the breathtaking scenery and embrace the holiday spirit as only the landscapes and scenery in Co. Mayo can do.
Here is a nice glimpse of the amazing work done on the steps, demonstrating the exceptional craftsmanship and effort that went into the pathways construction.
CARPE DIEM